Chicken Delight 鸡之乐趣

One day in the dead of winter, I looked out my back window and saw a chicken. It was jet-black with a crimson wattle, and it seemed unaware that it was in New York City. In classic barnyard fashion, it was scratching, pecking and clucking.

How it came to a small backyard in Astoria, Queens, remains a matter of conjecture. The chicken made its first appearance next door, at the home of a multitude of cabdrivers from Bangladesh. My wife, Nancy, and I figured they had bought the chicken and were fattening it for a feast. That hypothesis fell into doubt when the chicken hopped the fence and began pacing the perimeter of our yard with a proprietary air.

Eating it was out of the question. As a restaurant critic and an animal lover, I subscribe to a policy of complete hypocrisy. Serve fish or fowl to me, but don’t ask me to watch the killing. Once I meet it, I don’t want to eat it.

Nancy and I next theorized that the chicken had escaped from a live-poultry market about four blocks away and was on the run. Our hearts went out to the brave little refugee. We had to save it.

Chickens were beginning to sound like the ideal pet. The chicken took to its new surroundings easily. Its main social task was to integrate into the cat society—a group of about five strays we feed.

How would the two species deal with each other?

One morning I looked out the window and saw four cats lined up at their food bowls, and, right in the middle, eating cat food with gusto, was the chicken. Occasionally it would push a cat aside to get a better position. The cats, for their part, regarded the chicken warily. To the extent that it was a bird, it was prey. But big prey. From time to time they would

stalk, press their bodies to the ground, swish their tails and give every sign of going for the kill. Then they would register the chicken’s size and become gripped by second thoughts. A face-saving, halfhearted lunge would follow.

The two sides soon achieved parity. Sometimes, I’d look out back and see a cat chasing the chicken. Ten minutes later I’d see the chicken chasing a cat. I like to think they reached the plane of mutual respect. Perhaps affection.

Although it was nice to know the chicken could eat anything, cat food didn’t seem right. I called my mother. Mom drove to the local feed store in La Porte, Texas, and picked up a

25-pound bag of scratch grains, a blend of milo, corn and oats. She began shipping the grain in installments. The chicken seemed to appreciate the feed.

Our care paid off. One morning, Nancy spied an egg on the patio. At the base of the pine tree, where the chicken slept, was a nest containing four more eggs. They were small, somewhere between ecru and beige, but this was it. The blessed event. After I wrote about the chicken in the New York Times, my mail-bag was bursting with letters offering advice on the proper care and feeding of chickens. Disturbed that she did not have a name, fans wrote with suggestions.

Vivian had a certain sultry appeal; Henrietta seemed cute. But Henny Penny? The media jumped in. National Public Radio quizzed me about the chicken for one of its weekend programs. “My producer wants to know, could you hold the telephone up to the chicken so we can hear it?” the interviewer asked. Unfortunately, I don’t have a 100-foot cord on my telephone. The

Associated Press sent a photographer to capture the chicken’s many moods.

(She had two.)

Then one morning I looked out my kitchen window, and my heart stopped. No chicken—not in my pine tree or the tree next door. Nor was she pecking and scratching in any of the nearby yards. There were no signs of violence, only a single black feather near the back door.

She was definitely missing. But why?

Spring was in the air. Could she be looking for love? Or perhaps she was reacting badly to the burdens of celebrity? Or maybe she was simply looking for a place to lay her eggs in peace.

鸡之乐趣

她来了，咯咯叫，并征服了我们的纽约市的后院

文/ 威廉·格里姆斯

摘自“纽约时报”

一个严冬的日子，我从后窗往外看，见到一只鸡。它是乌黑色的，带一块深红色的垂肉，似乎没有意识到自己在纽约市。它像在传统的谷仓前的院子里那样抓来抓去，啄来啄去，咯咯地叫着。

它是如何来到昆斯区阿斯多利亚地方的一个小小的后院的呢？这一直都是个不解之谜。这只鸡是在邻居那里初次亮相的，而那是一群孟加拉籍的出租车司机的家。我妻子南希和我猜想是他们买来这只鸡并正在把他喂肥以便吃肉的。不过，当它跳过篱笆开始以主人的姿态在我们的院子四周踱步时，这个猜测就站不住脚了。

吃它是不可能的。集美食家和动物爱好者于一身的我，采取的是一种彻头彻尾的伪君子态度。给我端上鸡鸭鱼肉吧，但是别让我观看宰杀。一旦我看到，我就不想吃了。

南希和我接着怀疑它是从一个大约四栋楼远的活禽市场跑出来的，而且还在继续逃命。我们的心为这个小难民而颤抖。我们必须解救它。

这年头，鸡正开始显得像人们理想的崇物了。

这只鸡很容易就适应了新环境。它的主要社会任务就是把自己溶入他身边的猫的世界—— 一群我们所养的五只左右无家可归的猫。

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